A Trip to Peru in the Middle East

Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura of Maido, No.6 World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023

Written by Donya Raslan
with a foreword by Reem Khamis

Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura is the Peruvian chef patron of Maido, one of the world’s most influential restaurants to come out of Peru. It specializes in Nikkei cuisine, which blends Japanese cooking techniques with Peruvian ingredients.

Tsumura is credited for raising Nikkei cuisine to global fame and putting Peru in the spotlight. For three years, his Lima-based restaurant, currently ranked fifth in the world, retained the title of Latin America’s Best Restaurant by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Being Peruvian of Japanese descent, Tsumura’s work focuses on studying traditional techniques, sourcing local ingredients, and researching the origins of Nikkei cuisine. His menus are inspired by Peru’s incredible biodiversity, blending the delicacy of Japanese cuisine with strong, vibrant flavors that are quintessentially Peruvian.

For Cairo Food Week, Tsumura brought a taste of Maido to Sachi Park St., the brainchild of pioneer restaurateur Ayman Baky. Nestled in the western suburbs of Cairo, Sachi was named among MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023.

Titled ‘Influenced by the Root,’ the dinner was an inspiring display of the versatility of indigenous Peruvian ingredients and the ingenuity of borrowing — and creatively melding — culinary techniques.

We asked Donya Raslan to share her experience of the evening.

Tiradito

Sachi remains one of Egypt’s hippest, most revered restaurants, so when it came to Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura’s long-awaited dinner, hosting it at Sachi was a no-brainer. And it was certainly not a coincidence.

Sachi offers an ambiance perfectly orchestrated for a night like this; the ethereal design and dim ambient lighting weaves together a tapestry of comfort, inviting guests to linger in its embrace long after the tables are cleared.

The crowd consisted of an eclectic group of chefs, food writers, visionary restaurateurs, artistic minds and stylists. We were all seated on the mezzanine floor; the dinner tables were arranged in an intimate way that fostered a familiar environment, one where new connections could emerge.

After warm greetings were exchanged and laughter filled the room, it was time to dive into the heart of the matter: Tsumura’s gastronomic artworks were ready to make an appearance. Inspired by Amazonian flavors, the Peruvian chef blended his Japanese influences into a meticulously crafted symphony composed of nine dishes. The culinary affair bore the chef’s signature technique of borrowing and meddling, which seemed to fit seamlessly with Sachi’s ethos.

“The most important thing you should do is to give good messages to people. Try to do more for your country, for your region and to help each other. So, I think that’s something that is a responsibility .”

- Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura

Ayman Baky, Founder Baky Hospitality

“[CFW] has given hope & ambition to a whole new generation that was striving to shine. It’s been a fantastic exposure for our industry & our country.”

- Marc Ghazal

As a keen foodie, I willingly embraced the unknown (with a few exceptions, to be completely honest). Still, this remarkable dinner got me to push my boundaries a little, leaving me delightfully off-balance.

First there was Lactomato — a concoction of tomato, strawberry, pink peppercorn, yuzu and pomelo. Unfortunately, the taste provoked more perplexity than the desire to savor it through. However, redemption was earned with the subsequent course, an assortment of “snacks” that washed away any hard feelings. The selection boasted a harmonious fusion of velvety textures and tantalizing crispness, reminiscent of fanfare chocolate wafers I enjoyed as a child. Following the snacks, we were served a plate of tofu. Between the creaminess of the tofu and the sweet crunch of yucca beans, we were in awe.

The menu continued to tease our senses with robust flavors and textures, each boldly pushing the boundaries of our minds (and palates). Another highlight was the Katsu Sando. Defying expectations, this dish deviated from convention, presenting succulent sweetbreads (a rarity on modern menus) instead of the anticipated fried chicken, embraced within layers of shredded cabbage and chutney.