A Beautiful Homage to the Memories that Shape the Journey of a Chef
The deeper you dive into the histories of famous chefs, the more a singular, powerful truth comes into focus: their journeys begin (almost always) with mothers and mother figures. Long before they’ve logged their 200+ hours of practice, or dedicated many months to perfecting their craft — or gone on a hunt for that elusive flavor — the first spark of interest is born and nurtured in the kitchens of grandmothers, godmothers, mothers and aunts.
In worn-out kitchens bursting with steamy, mismatched pots, with the simplest tools and freshest local ingredients, chefs learn their very first lesson — cooking is a personal affair; the best food always comes from the heart.
Written by Wesam Masoud & Reem Khamis
“This [menu] is about people, and that’s what food is all about.”
- Chef Gregoire Berger
Chef Gregoire Berger of Ossiano, 1 Michelin Star, No.4 MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023
Chef Mirette Aly of The Lemon Tree & Co., Founder & CHO TLT Concepts
On the third day of Cairo Food Week, we experienced the convergence of two unique chefsL Chef Gregoire Berger and Chef Mirette Aly came together at The Lemon Tree & Co., one of Aly’s restaurants, to share their personal stories through an inspiring menu full of local flair and delectable surprises. It was thoughtfully curated, elegantly executed and wonderfully representative of their individual journeys.
Reminiscing about childhood activities and honoring the beloved women who influenced their paths, Berger and Aly shared stories of their most cherished food memories, and in the process, revealed to guests the culinary encounters that shaped their approach to food.
The night began with ‘The Illusion of a Tomato,’ two delicacies from Berger’s childhood home in Brittany: a tomato gazpacho molded to look like a tomato next to a miniature rice paper crab. The singular bites literally popped in the mouth; tart, fresh flavor gushed from the mini tomato, while the distinctly mineral sweetness of crab perfumed our mouths. Those around our table argued about which order to eat them in, because each sequence yielded a different experience, and that, undoubtedly, is a sign of a strong dish.
Aly followed with a loving ode to the ultimate Egyptian summer snack, her personal favorite ‘Bateekh w Gebna’ (watermelon and creamy feta cheese). A familiar flavor pairing for most Egyptians, Aly showed her penchant for a light touch with the infusion of Kaffir leaves into the compressed watermelon brick. The addition of caviar brought sophistication to the composition, a subtle reference to summer by the sea.
“Cooking is a personal affair ; the best food always comes from the heart.”
Chef Kareem Atef, The Lemon Tree & Co.
Batarekh Port Said - Port Said Bottarga
Next, Berger handed us a delicate shrimp dish inspired by his first trip to Japan, challenging us to venture outside our comfort zone and go back to where “life starts.” The dish is inspired by his memories of Japan as a young boy, where he realized that life begins when you leave home and exit your comfort zone.
In the same vein, Aly topped a bluefin tuna with cumin tahini and sea greens. Stepping outside her comfort zone, she took what is perceived as an exotic delicacy, sourced it locally and then topped it with a distinctively Egyptian sauce that is rarely, if ever, associated with seafood in international cuisines. It was a home run.
This dish also showed the fluidity of in
fluences between both chefs. The sesame-tuna pairing may be a classic Japanese match, but its delivery here was firmly rooted within Egyptian flavor memory.
We went down the ‘Path to Nostalgia’ to Berger’s days as a young chef in training, back when a croque monsieur was the go-to meal on long days and tight budgets. Aly’s ‘Cracked Wheat and Chestnut Mushrooms Risotto’ took us back to the roots of Ancient Egyptian cuisine, where wheat was an important economic crop, revered as a gift from the Gods themselves. This was followed by Berger’s toothfish with seaweed and garlic sauce, allowing us to briefly explore the ocean’s depth.
Exploring the Ocean’s Depth
While Berger’s final offering, milk in olive skin, celebrated the olive trees under which he fell in love with his wife Miriam — who is also a chef — Aly paid tribute to her grandmother; she brought out a sweet, tantalizing Om Ali with cranberry coconut milk.
The journey of a chef begins long before they ever set foot in a professional kitchen. These early lessons are what shape their palates and fuel their curiosity. Through years of training, the lessons accumulate, and they continue to grow through struggle and achievement — a collection of memories that forms the threads from which the most meaningful menus are woven.
Chef Meriem Berger
“In the name of Egypt and Egyptian ingredients, we proudly served our impeccable quality produce to people from all over the world who truly appreciated it. It is through the warm and worldly tables of CFW; we finally found our voice to begin narrating our long-lived story to the world.”
- Chef Mirette Aly
“The story behind [the dish] is what makes people travel.”
- Chef Gregoire Berger
Where the Winter Started
Alex Henein, The Smokery
