Destination Dining and the transcontinental Line from the Indus to the Nile

Written by David J. Constable

On June 9, 2023, as the curtain dropped on the first edition of Cairo Food Week, a few lucky guests donned their finest drapery and headed for the sands. Out here, they held the final collaborative meal of the week, hosted by Khufu restaurant, part of the Pier 88 hospitality group, and named after the famed pharaoh who ruled from 2589 to 2666 BCE. I can’t think of a more suitable location for such a celebratory occasion and a coming together of global greedy diners, than in front of the crowning glorification of Egypt and in the company of kings.

In my life as a professional traveller and eater, Cairo and Egypt had long eluded me. And yet, having never set foot on the ancient soil or run my fingers through its red sands, there was a sense of the familiar. The exported image of the country relies on the historical furniture of construction, the legacy of its rulers, its beauties, and all the dusty architecture and burial apparatus of royalty. For over twenty-five years, I have kept a black and white postcard of the musician Louis Armstrong playing the trumpet to his wife, Lucille, in front of the Great Sphinx. Then and now, I find the image teasingly adventurous, strangely and unexpectedly pulled in by the mythical structure behind, with the head of a human and the body of a lion. For any dreamy adventurous boy from the wet, green island I call home, this hot, sand-blasted desert scene is marinated in something wondrous.

It was early evening as we drove into Giza. Giddy, I was unabashed in my excitement. The tourists and knick-knack peddlers had all now departed, and the trio of pyramids shimmered in the heat, looking faintly pink and translucent in the twilight. Opposite Khufu’s Great Pyramid, its namesake restaurant was the only sign of modernity in the desert. Dining here, with the sandy backdrop of the past and history within your grasp, is an impressive thing. And I arrived hungry.

The brainchild of Flavor Republic, the thought process behind Cairo Food Week was to launch a platform for local chefs to exercise their creative muscle while simultaneously pairing them with their international ilk. Reflecting on its success, it has promoted a coming together of nations, of kitchens and of varied culinary styles and techniques. This final collaboration between Khufu’s head chef and the culinary curator of Pier 88, Mostafa Seif, and Himanshu Saini of the two-star Trèsind Studio in Dubai, sought to explore the parallel journeys of the chefs from Egypt and India, respectively.

I think it right at this juncture to note that Trèsind Studio was a mere 50 Best Restaurant extended list entry at the time of eating. However, at the time of writing, it has stormed up the global list to the eleventh-ranked restaurant in the world. Ahsanta!

“India has so much of colonial history. It’s one of the oldest civilizations like the Egyptian, there’s many similarities within the culture, within the people.

- Chef Himanshu Saini

Pursuit of the West

Narrators Heena Patel (left) of Trèsind Studio & Dr. Mennat-allah El Dorry (right)

Accompanying the chefs were Mennat-Allah El Dorry, the Egyptologist and archaeology faculty member of Ain Shams University, and Heena Patel, part of Trèsind Studio’s operational team and an adept storyteller of the restaurant’s menus and culinary adaptations. At various stages throughout the evening, both took the floor to educate guests on certain recipes and timely courses, detailing the genesis and creation undertaken for each, and with a narrative backstory of home. And then a harp started, like a melodic lullaby, the notes lifted into the sky. It was a fitting addition to the evening’s proceedings and possibly a sign of things to come. It wasn’t Louis and his trumpet but romantically musical all the same, and a further extension of my dreamy Arabian fantasy.

The meal opened with introductions and a round of applause for the Khufu restaurant, which had recently been presented with the Hidden Gem Award by La Liste. The chefs then did their celebratory pirouettes to the guests before sprinting back to the kitchens to check on their plates. There was a definite sense of the cornucopia to dinner and the offer of plenty when plates began to arrive. The invited glitterati had come out to eat and spoil in the rarity of their surroundings; and the chefs, too, who were cooking in the presence of kings, as well as an ambassador or two.

The menu was comprised of snacks and meze with thankfully nothing too Old Kingdom communicated in hieroglyphics — although that would have been fun to witness, the guests scratching their heads while attempting to decipher mains. Instead, buns, tartlets, artichoke shawerma, crispy za’atar saj, blossom chaat, duck pastrami, smoked herring and kebab halla. And just when I thought it could not be any more geographically celebratory, a series of courses called “Pursuit of the West”, “Splendors of the South”, “Pharaonic Duck” and “Grandeurs of the North” were served.

Portion sizes were suitably Pharaonic, with produce boastful of MENA. Seif lent on the bounty of Egypt while Saini drew on his native India and the country’s wealth of spices, each working with El Dorry and Patel to chronicle their creations, woven together like an edible tapestry.

One particular standout was “Khichdi of India and Egypt” in which large marble maps of the countries accompanied the chefs. Charted across each were small bowls of topographical lentils, herbs and assorted ​​spices, individually introduced to the guests before they were jumbled to create the classic South Asian Khichdi dish, a nod to one of Trèsind Studio’s most emblematic and lauded courses. It was chosen specifically as a point of intersection in which similarities can be drawn to Egypt’s national dish of koshari, which itself is a jumbled assembly of competing elements and an amalgam of ingredients. Like much of the food we eat today, its origins remain disputed. The recipe may have been invented by French settlers in the 19th century as a veggie dish called couches de riz. Other outlets have attributed it to the British, claiming that, as colonists of both India and Egypt, soldiers brought Khichdi with them, which was then adapted at the hands of Egyptian soldiers and citizens.

Chef Himanshu Saini of Trèsind Studio, 2 Michelin Stars, No.2 MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023, No.11 World’s 50 Best 2023

Chef Mostafa Seif, Executive Chef Pier88 Group & Khufu’s, La Liste Mediterranean Hidden Gem

Splendors of the South

“Even as a landmark, it’s historic ! To be serving food around the Pyramids, it’s what dreams are made of.”

- Heena Patel

Puddings of sour milk and pandan payesh, titled “Rising East”, and peanut crumble with sesame meringue, halawa fluff and mastic ice cream, titled “Childhood Memories ‘Sakalans’”, were reminders of the chefs’ reliance and the importance placed on home — providence and journeys furthering the themes of the evening, for both chefs and ingredients. It was destination dining and the drawing of a transcontinental line, from the Indus to the Nile and the Arabian Sea, via deviations through the Sahara sands and across the Persian Gulf, eventually landing here, where the shifting landscape of Egypt has hosted pharaohs and the monarchs of civilization.

Approaching midnight, the exhausted chefs and their crews departed the kitchen to join the guests, who sat stuffed and comatose. I left my table in an effort to stretch my legs and ease my gurgling guts and stood on the edge of the restaurant building, contemplating the expanse of desert in front of me. It was dark by now, but possibly still the finest view in the world. It felt a bit like a joke movie set, populated by stunt camels — I wanted Elizabeth Taylor to sashay up to me in full Cleopatra garb, her sharp eyes and enigmatic gaze fixed on only me. Suddenly we were all jolted by a whizz and a boom-boom bang! Off in the distance, a fizz and a crackle. A whistle and a streak of pink then electrified the sky, followed by yellow and green and purple and blue, a rainbow burst of explosive pyrotechnics as fireworks tore across the sky, the backdrop of the pyramids illuminated; the guests oohing and aahing in dumbfounded unison.

Mark Ayoub,Director of F&B and Operations Pier88 group

From Left H.E. Ambassador Michele Quaroni, Giovanni Bolandrini (CEO & Co-owner Pier88 Group) with Karim El Assal of Misr Italia Properties

“Egyptian food is ever evolving, and has been for millenia. Exploring and understanding Egyptian culinary history is crucial to appreciate what makes our cuisine unique and to inspire our culinary future.”

- Dr Mennat-Allah El Dorry, Food Archaeologist

Hana Shash, Senior Graphic Designer FR Ventures

Making of the Pharaonic Duck

“Egyptian cuisine is vast and rich with many diverse cultures. I wanted to create dishes that told the story of my country [Egypt] and its culture.”

- Chef Mostafa Seif

Singari “Papyrus & Lotus”

“A rainbow burst of explosive pyrotechnics as fireworks tore across the sky, the backdrop of the pyramids illuminated; the guests oohing and aahing in dumbfounded unison.”