THE JOURNEY OF ANA
In 2002, Ana Roš walked into the, now legendary, Hiša Franko kitchen a novice with a home cook’s understanding of gastronomy. In 2023, she was celebrated as one of only 8 female chefs globally to hold the coveted 3 Michelin Stars, in addition to a Green Star for the restaurant’s sustainable culinary practices. In the intervening years, her work within the restaurant and the local community in the Soča Valley has set a new standard for cultural representation and authenticity in gastronomy, positioning Slovenia solidly on the global culinary map. In 2024, Ana and the Hiša Franko team brought their unique culinary approach to Cairo Food Week for an exclusive dinner at Pier 88 Nile River.
Written by Reem Khamis
“Being aware of local tradition is the basis on which a chef should build their creations” - Ana Roš for Chef’s Table, Netflix 2016
The Hisa Franko team brought an exciting and inquisitive energy into their first visit to Cairo, starting off their experience with a trip to Cairo’s largest and most popular local wholesale market before delving into the city’s culinary culture. Exploring local cuisine from elaborately refined gastronomy to humble street food, and speaking to local experts on the traditions that shaped the modern Cairene culinary repertoire. Eventually curating an intriguing gustatory experience that beautifully paired Slovenian classics with Egyptian flavors.
The resulting menu featured Hiša Franko classics like smoked trout roe and local Slovenian cheese as well as a bevy of playfully surprising combinations in Ana’s signature-style like the clam tagliolini with a reduction of preserved melon, cinnamon and basil. The team’s market visit gifted us with the “Egyptian Garden”, inspired by our local seasonal produce and the ever present fresh baladi bread & ‘green salad’ - staples of every Egyptian meal. A combination of 50 elements layered into a vibrant rainbow of a salad; fruits, root vegetables and leafy greens dotted with a bready undertone thanks to toasted yeast, chased by a hint of spice and nuts from the papaya seeds.
As a self-taught chef, Ana developed her skills and style more organically, unhindered by the rules and bounds of classical culinary training, fueled by a passionate love for the land, creating a uniquely imaginative and unrestricted approach to cuisine - which is what sets her food apart from the rest. Her ability to take her existing knowledge of local traditions and use it as the basis to create something new; unexpected yet somehow pleasantly familiar. Every dish on the menu is rooted in its natural surroundings, even as it takes on influences from neighboring cuisines or from her extensive travels. Even as it dons a more modern form, it still plays the important role of representing Slovenian tradition and keeping it alive.
As Cairo’s star continues to rise on the international scene, more and more the conversation centers around the image we hope to portray to the world. With food as a universal language, our creative culinary endeavors will inevitably shape how the global tastemakers perceive our culture. While we should learn from international techniques, stories like the journey of Ana, prove the infallible role of authenticity in crafting a successful narrative, peaking the curiosities of the world’s gastronomes and connoisseurs.
